Exploring small communities and hsitoric sites in New Providence, The Bahamas.
WHAT-TO-DO - NASSAU, CABLE BEACH & PARADISE ISLAND - JAN 2003 EDITION
Like an Out Island that floated to shore, New Providence's south side has a charm all its own. Far from the glitz and glamour of Paradise Island and Cable Beach, several remote communities here represent a side of New Providence seldom seen by visitors. Don't expect the manicured medians of the island's North-West, or the flashy yachts and glittering lights of Paradise Island. The south side has a landscape all its own: long, dusty roads, overgrown verges, and small seaside villages.
The sleepy oceanfront neighbourhood of Coral Harbour is worth a look for its tree-lined streets and canal system. Conceptualized in the late 1950s to be an upscale resort and residential area, complete with golf course and shopping centre, it never quite took off. Today, that's not necessarily seen as a bad thing. The community is probably more popular now than ever, treasured by residents for its tranquil surroundings and the peace it offers.
Huge stone pillars, remnants from the original community, mark the entrance to the neighbourhood. Look up as you pass by them - sometimes you can see roosting barn owls peering out from the top openings.
Forgotten hotel
At the end of Coral Harbour Rd, the Royal Bahamas Defence Force base now occupies what was once the fashionable Coral Harbour Club and Hotel. At its height, the Club's restaurant was the place to go on a Sunday. The eight-story concrete skeleton of what was to have been a second hotel still stands, a reminder of the resort's fate.
Watch for unobstructed sea views along this road as some of the oceanfront lots remain undeveloped. If you're in the market for real estate, check out Prosper Place II, a new oceanfront community with two- and three-bedroom condominiums.
If you're planning a dive with Nassau Scuba Centre or Dive Dive Dive, you'll find them along this road as well. Custom Aquatics is also in Coral Harbour on Bailey Dr.
Across from Nassau Scuba Centre is the Coral Harbour Sand Bar Restaurant. Enjoy a cool drink and a friendly chat under the thatched-roofed, open-air bar. They also serve Bahamian fare such as curry and steam' mutton, jerk chicken and pork, peas 'n rice and plantain. Eat in the air-conditioned dining room or out on the patio. On weekend evenings this little bar also has live Bahamian music.
Horseback rides
Where a number of holiday homes were once slated in Coral Heights West, you'll now find Happy Trails Stables. The stables are home to 12 horses that take guests on peaceful 11?2-hour rides along the "aqua-tel" trail - an area once slated as a site for motels along the canals. What would have been a bustling area is now a quiet, natural setting amid abandoned foundations. The excursion includes riding along a secluded beach. Happy Trails also hosts a day-long horse show and competition every March.
Bulldozers have recently started work at the old golf course, overgrown with vegetation. Known as an outstanding birdwatching spot, it remains to be seen how long this will last. In the meantime, look for mockingbirds, catbirds, thrushes, tanagers, grassquits and warblers.
Pedal and Paddle Ecoventures used to maintain bike trails throughout the golf course but these have been disrupted by the construction. They still have bike trails through the pine forest, along the seashore and in the mangroves, however. The eco-tour company also conducts kayak excursions to the small offshore islands in this area and between Coral Harbour beach and Adelaide beach.
Historic village
Adelaide Village, west of Coral Harbour, is named after the Queen of William IV. Dating back to 1832, this community was settled by 134 freed captives of Spanish and Portuguese slave ships bound for Cuba.
Although it's only 13 miles from Nassau, Adelaide was, as recently as 1968, like a 100-year-old time capsule with daily life having changed little for the 200 or so residents. It had no electricity, no transport to town and no newspaper delivery. The small houses had thatched roofs and dinners were cooked by the light of kerosene lamps on kerosene stoves. Twentieth century innovations at the time included two public taps from which residents could draw water and one free telephone kiosk, although it didn't always work. Today, Adelaide retains its old-world charm, even with conveniences of electricity and jitney (bus) service.
Driving down Adelaide Rd towards the village, birders should check the right-hand field on summer evenings for Antillean nighthawks and sometimes a Bahama swallow, according to Anthony W White in his book, A Birder's Guide To The Bahama Islands. He also says the west side of the mouth of Adelaide Creek, on the inland side, is a good place to spot herons, clapper rails, willets, black-necked stilts and yellow warblers. On the other side you may see black-bellied, semipalmated and Wilson's plovers and royal terns.
Feeling peckish? Stop by Avery's restaurant for friendly conversation and down-home Bahamian fare. Try their curried chicken or mutton, chicken or sheep tongue souse (rhyming with "house," this is like a thin stew or a lumpy soup), peas soup 'n dough (dumplings), conch or even steak.
For beachfront rustic charm, head to the Honeycomb Beach Bar with its outdoor tables made of recycled industrial cable spools sunken into the sand. Enjoy a friendly game of pool or take a walk along the deserted beach. If you walk left, you'll come upon a huge pile of discarded conch shells where local fishermen clean their catch - you might even get a lesson in conch cracking (extracting the conch from the shell).
Tranquil resort
South Ocean, west of Adelaide, is best known for the South Ocean Golf and Beach Resort. The relaxed atmosphere of the Pavilion waterfront bar and restaurant is a welcome change from New Providence's sometimes chaotic north side. A cool drink, a light lunch, waves lapping against the seawall and great ocean views make this poolside venue a real gem. Sometimes they have an afternoon DJ dishing out the latest Caribbean sounds. Look out on the horizon and you'll often see scuba diving boats anchored for diving on the wall, a 6,000 ft drop off into an inky blue abyss called The Tongue of the Ocean.
The resort also has the indoor Flamingos restaurant open for breakfast daily. Evening dining alternates between the Pavilion and Flamingos, depending on the weather.
Golfers will want to check out the resort's 18-hole, Joe Lee-designed championship golf course. This PGA-rated course has a pro shop, driving range, chipping area, practice putting greens, and there's a golf pro on site.
Bahamian Hollywood
Immediately west of the South Ocean Golf and Beach Resort you'll find Stuart Cove's Aqua Adventures. Even if you don't scuba dive, stop off and see the movie set - the wooden buildings and grounds of the dive centre itself - used as the fishing village in the 1996 children's adventure drama, Flipper.
The staff have been involved in the filming of several box-office hits over the years with owners Stuart and Michelle Cove having established themselves as leading underwater film production coordinators. Stuart has "wrangled" sharks in James Bond spy adventures For Your Eyes Only and Never Say Never Again. Michelle was a stunt double for Denise Richards, aka Dr Christmas Jones, nuclear weapons expert, in another James Bond flick, The World is Not Enough. Other movies they have worked on include the Imax film Ocean Man, Spy Kids, Charlie's Angels, Deep Blue Sea, Power Rangers, Splash, Cocoon and Jaws IV The Revenge.
While you're there, say "hello" to Bubbles and Reba, the resident parrots. You can also browse the store for clothes, postcards, dive equipment and accessories.
Continuing west you'll come upon Commonwealth Brewery. If you're a fan of Kalik - the Bahamian-brewed beer - you can go behind the scenes with a tour, if you arrange it in advance. Find out how beer is made and see the different processes involved.
Between Clifton Point and Lyford Cay is a pier known as "the crooked dock," used in Jaws IV. The short road leading to the pier is unmarked and almost hidden by vegetation - look for a concrete fence with an upper green privacy screen. Unless you've got good balance, you can't walk along the dock as the planks were ripped up by Hurricane Floyd in 1999.
The little beach here is popular with locals for Sunday afternoon cook-outs. A wonderful glow is also cast over this area as sunset nears - providing great photo opportunities.
According to White, the beach's parking lot is home to a rare endangered Rauvolfia nitida. Usually marked with a red ribbon, this scraggly tree has gray bark and dark green leaves with small white flowers in spring and summer.
Directly offshore you'll see Goulding Cay, where thousands of sooty terns, bridled terns, and brown noddies nest each summer. You'll need binoculars to see them though.
To return to Cable Beach, Nassau and Paradise Island, continue on South West Bay Rd past Lyford Cay, which will turn into West Bay St and then into Bay St. But don't put that camera away yet - if the sun hasn't set, stop off for a seaside drink at Compass Point or Travellers' Rest - a most worthy ending to the day.
Disclaimer: The information in this article/release was accurate at
press time; however, we suggest you confirm all details and prices
directly with vendors.
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